On the reflection of a solitary wave at a sloping beach: Analytical results

A. Jeffrey, H. H. Dai

Research output: Journal Publications and ReviewsRGC 21 - Publication in refereed journalpeer-review

Abstract

This paper modifies the edge layer theory introduced by Sugimoto and Kakutani in [1] by including terms up to the order of O(ε{lunate} 3 2) in the boundary condition for the exterior problem to take account in the edge layer of the surging movement at the shoreline. A perturbation procedure involving strained coordinates combined with the inner and outer expansions is then developed to solve such an exterior problem. The analytical results obtained make clear the long-time evolution of a solitary wave after its reflection at the beach. Analytical expressions for the maximum run-up at the beach and the time when it is attained are presented. Analytical results are also given for a beach of the form ω = μ-1 B(z), in Appendix A. Comparisons are made with available experimental and numerical results. © 1988.
Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)375-389
JournalWave Motion
Volume10
Issue number4
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - Aug 1988
Externally publishedYes

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